Trapping:
Unaltered
cats, whether abandoned or feral, reproduce early and often --
so "TNR" -- trapping, neutering, and then releasing
them is critical in keeping the population of unwanted cats down.
Anyone
can learn the simple techniques involved in trapping cats -- all
you need is a humane trap, some "smelly" cat food to
act as bait, and a blanket to cover the trap with once the cat
is captured.
1.
Clean your trap, making sure it's washed with hot, soapy water
and wiped down with a mild bleach and water mixture so there's
no scent from previous trappings. This is essential if you've
borrowed or rented a trap, and have no idea what kind of animal
was trapped in it before. Even if it's your own trap, used only
for trapping cats, the smell of another animal can drive your
intended captive away.
2.
Cover the mesh floor of the trap with newspaper or a clean towel,
as some cats will not walk on the metal mesh. This also covers
the trip plate (see diagram), so that the cat won't see it, and
won't step over it, which would allow him to eat the food and
exit the trap without being captured.
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3.
Place a paper plate behind the trip plate, and be sure it's not
touching the plate or lying under it. You don't want the paper
plate to interfere with the tripping action.
4.
Serve up the bait -- some tuna packed in oil, or perhaps sardines.
The pungent fish odor will be irresistible to the cat. You can
also leave a trail of small bits of food leading up to the trap,
across the paper or towel that covers the bottom of the trap (and
the trip plate) and have that trail finish up at the plate. This
can help draw the cat in. NOTE: If you've
been feeding the cat you want to trap, you may want to withhold
a meal or two prior to the time you intend to trap -- the hungrier
the cat is, the more likely he is to step into the trap in pursuit
of food, despite any fear or hesitation about the trap itself.
5.
Position the trap, placing it against a wall, fence, a dumpster,
or up against/slightly under a bush. If the trap must be placed
on cement or concrete (or any cold, stone surface), place a blanket
or several thicknesses of towel under the trap so that the cold
stone doesn't draw the cat's body heat -- if the cat sits on a
cold surface for a long period, this exposure to cold with no
way to stay warm can be fatal. You don't want the trap sitting
out in the open, as this will not be an inviting scenario for
the cat. If you're setting multiple traps, try to place them so
the cat being lured into one can't see the other trap -- if the
untrapped cat sees another cat get captured, he'll be wary of
the the trap set for him and may not take the bait.
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6.
Set the trap, with the trap door up (see diagram), allowing the
cat to enter the trap.
7.
Move out of visual range, but don't go far away -- you never want
to leave traps unattended, as unattended traps with cats (or another
animal you might inadvertently capture) draw dogs or wild animals
that might threaten the trapped cat, and of course, there are
always nasty people who might steal the trap, with or without
a cat in it.
8.
Once the cat is trapped, leave the trap closed, and don't attempt
to touch the cat through the mesh of the trap. The cat is likely
to be scared and angry. Place a large towel or blanket over the
trap -- this will keep the cat warm, and help calm it down, because
it won't feel so "exposed", and will feel as though
it can hide.
9.
Carefully carry the trap to your vehicle, and place it on a level
surface, preferably prepared with plastic bags or a sheet of some
waterproof material under a blanket or newspapers. This will prevent
damage to your upholstery if the cat relieves itself, and by placing
a blanket or paper over the plastic, create a smooth, warm surface
on which to place the trap.
10.
Get the trap and the cat it contains to a veterinarian
immediately. If possible, take a picture of the cat while it's
still in the trap, and ask that the picture be attached to the
cat's medical records. This is especially helpful if you're bringing
in multiple cats in one trip, or if you're capturing cats from
a colony.
If you think
you'll be doing a lot of trapping, consider buying one or more
traps so that you always have at least one available when you
find a colony or even a single cat in need of rescue. You can
call SAFEGUARD, at 1-800-433-1819, or Animal
Care & Equipment Services (ACES) at 1-800-338-ACES.
SNIP TIP: Cat won't go into the trap? Use a twist-tie to hold the trap door open, and feed the cat in the trap for a few days. When you're ready to trap, just remove the twist tie, and the next time the cat goes in, he's trapped!
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Post-Operative Care
For ferals who've been spayed/neutered, the days after surgery can be very important. Here are some tips for caring for them once you bring them home from the Spay Day:
~ Prepare a warm, dry, quiet place in your home -- the basement, garage, laundry room, powder room -- for the cat/s to recover for a few days.
~ Keep the trap covered at all times, and place the trap on top of plastic garbage bags or other plastic sheeting to protect your floors/carpets from urine or feces.
~ Check on the cat/s often. There should be no bleeding from the site of the surgery, and watch for any difficulty breathing. The cat will be groggy, but anesthesia should wear off within 4 - 6 hours of your returning home.
~ Male cats should be kept indoors overnight, especially during cold or wet weather, or if such weather is expected soon. Females should be kept in for at least two nights, and if the cat was pregnant prior to the surgery, she must be kept in for three nights or more.
~ If the female was nursing kittens prior to your trapping her, you must release her, unfortunately, so that she can return to her kittens to care for them. Of course, if you can keep the kittens indoors with her, she can be kept indoors longer, which will improve her chances for a full recovery.
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Shannon monitoring neutered cats in recovery at the clinic.
~ When feeding in the trap, use common sense:
- Wear heavy gloves
- Use extreme caution, and only open the trap door one inch and slide a plastic or metal double-bowl (food and water) dish under the door. The cat will typically move back away from you, but be prepared for the cat to move toward the opening door, and keep it open just 1 inch until the food is in place.
- To retrieve the bowl and any dirty newspapers, you can buy tongs used for grilling to grab the bowl, or use a stick to pull it toward the door, then open the door 1 inch again, and pull the bowl out.
- If you are not comfortable with sliding a bowl in and out of the trap, you can sprinkle dry food or Tender Vittles through the top of the trap.
- When cats are clear-eyed, awake, and fully recovered, release them where they were trapped and provide food, water, and shelter.
IMPORTANT: Never, ever release a female until you've inspected her incision (through the trap). To do so, put the trap up on a table and hold half of the trap over the edge to view underneath -- or place the trap across the seat of two chairs, with enough space between the chair seats to give you a way to see under the trap and see the cat's incision. Get under the trap and use a flashlight to view the incision. If should be closed and dry -- no blood or other liquid oozing from it.
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Providing Shelter for Feral Cats
Keeping cats
warm and dry is as important as feeding them. They feel the cold
just like humans do and can get frostbite and die of hypothermia
when winter weather gets frigid.
You
can make your own shelter, following the instructions below, or
you can buy a shelter from the makers of the "Feral Villa".
Click here
to access their website.
Cut a small door in one end of the box.
The cats will need plastic or wooden insulated shelters, filled with straw (not hay), to bury themselves in to retain their body heat. Wool blankets are also an excellent source of warmth if they are changed regularly after storms or whenever they get wet. You can also use insulation -- pink styrofoam insulation for floor and walls costs very little and is available at Home Depot -- duct tape will keep the lid on.
A plastic flap will help keep the rain, snow, and wind out of the box.
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Feeding Feral Cats
A Feeding Station will keep your cats' food dry when it rains and keep the area where you feed clean and tidy. Use heavy ceramic or stainless steel bowls (plastic bowls are never really clean, and can hold onto bacteria, which can make the cats sick -- they're also so light they can blow away in a strong wind).
Food and water are accessible and out of the weather.
Always provide fresh water, and watch out for freezing weather -- check the water bowl to make sure the water isn't frozen solid, and if it is, replace it with a fresh bowl of water.
Face the station toward a wall or fence,
but leave room for you to access it easily.
When you visit the station, bring paper towels to wipe the bowls clean, especially if raccoons or other wildlife get into the station and get their muddy prints all over everything. You could also get two sets of bowls and swap them out, washing one set at home and leaving a fresh set in the station.
For more information on caring for feral cats, visit Alley Cat Allies.
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Caring
for Orphaned Kittens:
This
information provided through RescueGuide.com. Click here
to visit their site.
Options
when you find an Orphaned Kitten:
1.
Nursing mom: Kittens under 5-6 weeks should not be put
on a nursing mom unless both moms have been tested for FeLV &
FIV. Kittens can pass diseases to the nursing mom and the nursing
mom can pass diseases to the kittens.
2.
Original mom is best: A mom cat will still produce milk
to feed her kittens after being spayed. Mom's milk is the best
for the kittens. They get immunities from mom's milk.
3.
Bottle feeding: When bottle-feeding kittens, use a different
bottle for each litter if you have more than one litter. Also,
change your clothes to prevent upper respiratory infections (URIs)
and other diseases from passing from litter to litter.
4.
Supplementing a litter of 6 kittens or more with a mom:
If you have a mom with a litter of 6 or more kittens, watch them
carefully around 3-4 weeks of age. Mom may not have enough milk
for the entire litter and all the kittens will suffer. You may
need to supplement the feedings with KMR (or equivalent)
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Aging
the Kittens:
1.
Umbilical cord attached: They are 3 days or younger.
2.
Eyes: They begin to open at 7-8 days and all eyes should
be open by day 10. Their eyes generally change from blue to blue/gray
then yellow/green between 6 1/2 to 7 weeks of age but can vary
kitten-to-kitten and litter-to-litter. In one litter, kittens
can be conceived 4-5 days apart. This also contributes to the
different days the eyes open.
3.
Ears: Their ears stand up at 3-1/2 weeks of age.
4.
Teeth: Another way to age the kittens is by the teeth.
The following is from the Cornell Book of Cats. The ages are when
the teeth break the skin or 'eruption of the teeth' happens, or
when they break the surface.
Baby
teeth:
Center
(4) Incisors (front teeth between the canines) 2-3 weeks
Outer Incisors (still between the canines) 3-4 weeks
Canines 3-4 weeks
Upper molars (called a premolar) 2 months (8 weeks)
Lower molars (called a premolar) 4-5 weeks
Adult
teeth:
Center
(4) Incisors (front teeth between the canines) 3-1/2 to 4 months
(14-16 weeks)
Outer Incisors (still beaten the canines) 4 to 4-1/2 months (16-18
weeks)
Canines 5 months
Upper molars (called a premolar) 4-1/2 to 6 months (depending
on tooth)
Lower molars (called a premolar) 5-6 months for all
Upper molar in back, no baby tooth, just the molar at 4-5 months
5.
Mobility: They are unstable on their feet until they
are around 4 weeks of age and can run pretty well by 5 weeks.
If you see kittens running around a yard, they are at least 5-6
weeks old.
6.
Eating: They generally are eating on their own between
5 and 6 weeks of age. Some will eat as young as 4 weeks and some
will take as long as 8 weeks to stop the bottle if you are bottle
feeding. The older kittens who refuse to leave the bottle are
generally needing the one-on-one affection they are receiving.
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Care:
911:
1.
If you find a chilled kitten: If you find a chilled kitten,
warm it up before trying to feed the kitten. Hold the kitten close
to you to get warmth into the body. Give it warmed sugar water
in the mouth. You can also rub Karo Syrup on the gums. The syrup
will inter the body quickly through the gums. Also, if the kitten
is dehydrated, give it lactated ringers (fluids) via sub-Q (can
be done by a vet).
2.
If you find an over warmed kitten: If you find an over
warmed kitten, cool it down before trying to feed the kitten.
Put in cool water to lower the body temperature. Administer room
temperature water into the mouth. Then, give the kitten room-temperature
sugar water or Karo Syrup and lactated ringers (fluids) sub-Q
as listed in #1.
3.
If a kitten doesn't eat on his own after Karo Syrup: A
kitten who is still doesn't eat may need a dose of antibiotics.
They often get an imbalance in their intestines and need to correct
the bacteria. They should eat within 12 hours of the first dose.
Continue through the entire dose of drugs.
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Care:
non food related:
1.
Very young need attention: If the kitten(s) do not have
their eyes open, they are young and they should be held a minimum
of three hours per day. Transfer what we know about monkeys in
a cage without TLC, and you'll understand why the kittens need
to be held. Without this affection, young kittens will often die.
Hold them SEVERAL HOURS A DAY and you should have success with
the kitten.
2.
Clear Urine: Urine should be clear, not with mucous,
blood or yellow. If there is blood or mucous, see a vet immediately.
If the urine is yellow, the kitten is probably dehydrated. You
may want to have lactated ringers (fluids) administered by sub-Q
.
3.
Bathroom stimulation: Stimulation is required for the
release of both stool & pee until 3-4 weeks of age. use rough
material, not cotton, to resemble mom's tongue. Use a warmed,
wet wash cloth or a rough paper towel. Make sure the towel is
wet. Slowly massage the genitals until the kitten has peed and
pooped. The stool should be softly formed, not runny. If the stool
is runny, it is likely you are overfeeding the kitten or it has
a parasite. It is better to feed more often and give less food
each time than to overfeed a kitten. Potty them before and after
each feeding.
4.
Keep warm and away from drafts: Young kittens do not
keep a steady body heat. Keep out of drafts. Also, heating pads
are essential if the weather is under 75 degrees. Put the pad
on low and cover with a towel. The kitten will move off the pad
when warm enough, so allow enough room in their 'area' for them
to move off the pad.
5.
Sucking on each other: If the kittens suck on each others
genitals, separate them immediately. This can be painful to the
kittens and can cause sores as well as protruded genitals (which
will calm down when separated) Once they stop sucking, you can
put the kittens back together. This can take several days.
6.
Litter box usage: When starting to use a litter box,
if the kittens poop outside the box, pick it up and place it into
the box for training. Most kittens train themselves with a litter
box with a little nudge from us. If you have the kittens in a
large area, you may wish to provide more than one box so 'accidents'
don't happen.
7.
Type of litter: Do not use clumping litter with kittens
under 4 months. Litter can get into the eyes and cause infections.
Kittens also tend to eat the litter when young. You may wish to
start out with a small container for the litter box with sides
that are only 2 inches high. I use drawer dividers that are 6"
x 9" x 2" high from Rubbermaid.
8.
Keeping the kittens clean: While you are feeding the
kittens, they will get food all over them, especially while you
are weaning them. You need to clean them regularly to keep the
food off them. They have sensitive skin and can get red, irritated
skin if you leave KMR on their skin. A damp washcloth usually
cleans them. You don't want them to get too wet and therefore
get cold.
9.
Parasites: Remove all fleas. I use a citrus based shampoo
that doesn't kill the fleas, but slows them down. This also takes
the dirt off them. A metal flea comb works great, too. Fleas can
cause anemia in a kitten which can kill the kittens. Intestinal
parasites can also kill the kitten. if you suspect parasites,
take the kitten to a vet for de-worming and stool check. Drontal
is a fairly new de-wormer that will kill both tapeworm and roundworm.
It can be used on fairly young kittens.
Note:
All kittens should be treated at sometime for roundworms, since
95% will have roundworms from their moms. It should be routine
with your vet to de-worm for roundworms.
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Care:
food related:
1.
Feeding all kittens: Food should be warmed to room temperature
prior to feeding any kitten under 4 months of age. This includes
mother's milk replacement. You should only put as much milk in
the bottle that will be used at this feeding. After the feeding
is over, throw out all remaining milk and clean the bottle and
nipple. Re-using milk can cause bacteria in the kittens stomachs,
which can make them stop eating. If kittens DO get a bacteria
in the stomach (and stop eating), a dose of amoxycillin should
fight the bacteria within 12 hours. Use the entire dose of the
drug.
2.
How much to feed and how often: 8cc per ounce of weight
per day, do not overfeed. Feedings should be every 3-4 hours when
the kittens are young and should be round the clock. The stool
should be soft formed, not runny. If the stool is runny, it is
likely you are overfeeding the kitten or it has a parasite. It
is better to feed more often and give less food each time than
to overfeed a kitten.
3.
Position to feed from a bottle: Kittens should eat on
it's stomach, in the position one would feed a horse, lamb or
cow. Do not put them on their backs and feed like a human baby.
This can lead to the formula going into the air pipes which can
cause pneumonia and can kill them.
4.
How the kittens should suck the bottle: Kitten should
suck the bottle, not be forced down the throat. If the kitten
is sucking, the ears move and the mouth creates a suction around
the bottle. This prevents the food from going down the air pipes
which can cause pneumonia. If the milk comes out of the mouth
or nose, the hole is too big and you need to replace the nipple
with one with a smaller opening.
5.
Weaning kittens: Weaning kittens can be frustrating,
especially if they don't want to give up the bottle and the special
attention you are giving them. Start by mixing baby food (meats
like chicken or turkey) or wet food mixed with KMR. You can also
puree dry food in a blender and add with KMR.
6.
Water dishes: Kittens should start drinking water on
their own at 4-5 weeks of age. Don't get frustrated when they
are only playing or walking in it. One day, you will see them
drinking.
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What
to feed:
Goats
milk or KMR should be used on young kittens. Regular
milk (whole, low-fat and non-fat) is not recommended. There are
some home made remedies which work, too.
Goats
milk: Most grocery stores carry goats milk, and it is
available in condensed form to keep in the cupboard.
KMR: Available from a pet store, your vet or a feed store.
KMR
is available in both mixed and dry version. The dry is
more economical. There is a trick to mixing the water. Get a small
container with a secure lid. Add some KMR powder and then add
1/10 the amount of total water needed. Shake until mixed. You
should have a thick, smooth liquid. Dilute the liquid with the
remaining 9/10 of the water.
Notes:
I, personally, don't believe in tube-feeding. A healthy cat will
eat. A cat that needs to be forced may need a 12-24 hours of antibiotics
to 'kick in' the stomach. A kitten that has gone a long time without
food may have it's stomach shut down. This will result in the
milk curdling inside the kitten if the stomach is not functioning.
This will kill the kitten. The best thing to do is to give the
kitten warmed sugar water or rub Karo Syrup on the gums. Warmed
sugar water is water that is saturated with regular white table
sugar. Warm up a bit of water and add as much sugar that will
be absorbed by the water. Karo Syrup on the gums will be absorbed
into the system through the gums. Karo Syrup is easier to digest
and is the best for the kitten, but if you are in a jam and don't
have Karo Syrup, use regular white sugar.
Single
kitten syndrome: Single kittens tend to be biters.
This can be helped by putting in a stuffed toy for the kitten
to snuggle up to. You may also wish to find another single kitten
to merge with this kitten. It is a health risk to merge them together
for either kitten, but it can be really hard to break the habit
of biting with a young kitten.
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Why
some kittens are abandoned:
Abandonment at birth: Moms tends to leave some
kittens behind at birth if she feels she can not care for, protect
or have enough milk for the entire litter. This is usually done
within the first 24 hours.
Abandonment
after the first week: If the mom has kicked just one
out of the litter, there is probably something congenitally wrong
with him/her and you will probably loose the kitten. Mom cats
can sense if there is something wrong with a kitten.
Caught
while moving them: If the mom is in the middle of moving
her litter when you find 1-2 kittens, you have a choice. You can
let her come back and retrieve her kitten or you can take it/them
and care for them until they are adopted. Unlike other creatures
(like birds) cats will take their young back after being touched
by a human.
Why
some kittens die: Some kittens die for no
apparent reason. Any kitten you bring in may die despite your
efforts. This is a sad fact of rescue.
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Fostering
Strays and Feral Kittens:
Children
aren't the only creatures who need foster parents. Cats and dogs,
kittens and puppies--many of them need a temporary home to save
them from living at a shelter, being euthanized, or living the
harsh life of a stray animal. By being a foster parent, you provide
a safe, healthy, yet temporary home for an animal in need, and
as soon as an adoptive person or family can be found to give the
animal a permanent home, the animal leaves. So if you're not sure
you can take on a pet full time, or if you have pets of your own
and would like to help other animals find their own loving homes,
foster parenting may be for you!
All
you need is a spare bedroom, a den, a confined space in a warm,
dry basement -- some room you can devote to the animal for a few
weeks. The space should be uncluttered and safe, and we will provide
you with the supplies -- milk, food, litter boxes, toys, all the
things the animal will need.
While
you're fostering the animal, we'll be running ads in the newspaper
and spreading the word about the animal through our network of
contacts, looking for a permanent home. All prospective adoptive
parents are carefully screened, and we check with their vets and
often visit their homes to make sure they're the right people
to take your foster "child" home.
Foster
parents have saved many animals from a painful and dangerous life
on the streets, and by having a place to live until they're adopted,
the animals are saved from the euthanasia they'd face in animal
"shelters". Foster parents truly are life savers, and
all it takes is a spare room, a little time, and lots of compassion.
If
this sounds like something you'd like to do, give Donna Munizza-Shields
a call at 215-355-5940. She can give you all the details and help
you decide if foster parenting is right for you.
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